How to Install a Replacement Pinball Board: The Plug & Play Guide (No Soldering)

Installing a replacement pinball board is a Plug & Play operation that typically takes 20 to 30 minutes, with no soldering required. The board screws into the same holes as the original and plugs into the same connectors. The real work happens beforehand: removing the battery, checking the power supply voltages, and inspecting the Molex connectors. This guide walks you through each step, from removal to first boot, for a Gottlieb System 80/80A/80B, a Williams System 3 through 7, or a Bally (1977–1985).

Table of Contents

• Installing a pinball board: the short answer
• The 5 essential checks before you start
• Tools and materials needed
• Installing the board step by step (8 steps)
• Setting the dip switches
• First boot: what you should see
• Installation troubleshooting
• Which board for which pinball machine?
• FAQ
• Sources & further reading

Installing a Replacement Pinball Board: The Short Answer

Modern replacement boards (FPGA or microcontroller-based) are designed to use exactly the same connectors and mounting holes as the original boards. In practice: with the machine off and unplugged, you unscrew the old board, disconnect the ribbon cables, mount the new one, reconnect everything, set one or two dip switches, and power on. No wiring modifications are needed.

The official GottFA80_PLuS manual puts it simply: "The GottFA80 boards have the same connectors and the same mounting holes as the original Gottlieb System 80, 80A, and 80B boards, so replacing the original board takes only a few seconds."

Key Point	In Practice
Time required	20 to 30 minutes (not counting connector cleaning)
Soldering	None on a board delivered assembled and programmed
Skill level	Careful beginner — able to screw and plug in connectors
Main risk	Out-of-spec power supply or corroded connectors
Point of no return	None: the original board can always be reinstalled

The 5 Essential Checks Before You Start

90% of installations that "won't boot" fail because of one of these five points. Take the time to address them before mounting the new board.

1. Remove the battery — immediately and permanently

This is rule number one. Gottlieb System 80 machines use a rechargeable NiCd battery soldered to the CPU board. As it ages, it leaks potassium hydroxide, a highly corrosive compound that attacks traces and components — this is the #1 cause of death for original CPU boards. If your machine still has its battery, remove it before doing anything else and clean the corroded area. Our replacement boards operate without a battery (NVRAM memory), permanently eliminating the problem. We detail the damage and cleaning process in our guide: Battery leak on a pinball machine: dangers, damage, and the permanent fix.

2. Check the power supply before plugging in anything

A new board plugged into a faulty power supply can be damaged. Measure with a multimeter, with the machine powered on and the CPU board unplugged:

• Gottlieb System 80/80A/80B: the A2 power supply must provide stable +5, +8, +42, and +60 V. The +5 V potentiometer must be adjusted between 5.0 and 5.2 V.
• Williams System 3 through 7: on the MPU board, ground at TP10, the +5 V reads at TP9 (4.9 to 5.2 V acceptable) and the +12 V at TP1 (10 to 14 V acceptable). The main power connector is 1J2: ground on pins 1, 2, and 3, +5 V on pins 4, 5, and 6, +12 V on pin 9.
• Bally (1977–1985): TP1 should read approximately 5 V (normal range 4.9 to 5.2 V) and TP5 approximately 11.9 V. Note: a voltage above 5.2 V can prevent startup, particularly with replacement boards.

If the +5 V drifts or drops under load, repair the power supply first. A replacement board does not fix a bad power supply — with the special exception of the GottFA80_Plus, which on System 80 and 80A also replaces the original power supply board.

3. Inspect — and often redo — the Molex connectors

This is the most underestimated point. Connectors on 1980s pinball machines suffer from repeated plugging, oxidation, and vibration. Locking tabs get bent, pins turn black, and contact becomes intermittent. On a Gottlieb CPU board, the connectors most exposed to battery corrosion are typically those located near the battery. Inspect each pin with a magnifying glass: any pin that's blackened, green, or loose should be replaced. On a machine you want to run reliably for the long term, redoing all the connector pins is a worthwhile investment — otherwise, even the finest new board will behave erratically.

4. Identify your system and original board

A replacement board is specific to a family of machines. Open the backbox and identify the reference printed on the board. A Bally with an AS-2518-35 MPU is distinguished from the AS-2518-17 by its longer J5 connector (33 pins including the keying pin). If in doubt, our system guides clear up any ambiguity: Gottlieb System 80, System 80B, Williams System 3 through 7, and the BallyFA for Bally (1977–1985).

5. Photograph the wiring

Before disconnecting anything, take 5 to 10 clear photos of the backbox from multiple angles. Connectors are often keyed, but not always: a photo will save you from hesitation during reassembly and serve as a reference if something doesn't work.

Tools and Materials Needed

• A Phillips screwdriver and a bit set (backbox screws vary from machine to machine)
• A multimeter — non-negotiable, this is the tool that keeps the operation safe
• Nylon standoffs / washers if the originals are damaged
• Contact cleaner (electronic contact cleaner) and a soft brush
• Needle-nose pliers for Molex pins
• A small flat-head screwdriver or stylus for the dip switches
• A camera (your phone is fine)

Installing the Replacement Board Step by Step

1. Turn off the power and unplug the machine from the wall. Don't rely on the power switch — physically unplug the cord. Solid-state pinball machines handle +42 V and +60 V; working with the power off is the only safe practice.
2. Open the backbox and photograph everything. Locate the CPU/MPU board, the driver board, the power supply, and the sound board. Photograph the whole assembly, then each connector.
3. Disconnect the connectors one by one. Pull on the connector body, never on the wires. If a connector resists, gently rock it side to side. Mark any un-keyed connectors with a marker or masking tape.
4. Unscrew and remove the old board. Keep the screws, standoffs, and washers — you'll reuse them. Keep the original board — even if corroded, it has value (parts, exchange, resale) and you can always revert.
5. Clean the harness connectors. Contact cleaner, soft brush, replace any suspect pins. Now is the time.
6. Check the voltages with no load (see above), then turn the power back off.
7. Mount the new board. It sits on the same standoffs. Screw it in without overtightening — the PCB should not be under strain. Reconnect the connectors in reverse order of removal, verifying pin alignment one by one — a connector offset by one pin is the classic cause of a burnt component on first power-up. Special case: on a Gottlieb System 80B with a GottFA80_Plus, connector A1J3 is intentionally left disconnected.
8. Set the dip switches, then power on. See the next two sections.

On a Gottlieb System 80 or 80A, the GottFA80_Plus replaces the CPU board, driver board, and original power supply board all in one unit. On an 80B, it replaces the CPU and driver. This is what makes installation so quick: fewer boards, fewer connectors, fewer failure points.

Setting the Dip Switches

Modern FPGA boards are universal: a single board runs dozens of games. The dip switches tell the board which game to run and how to behave. On the GottFA80_PLuS, the S1 block (switches 1 through 6) selects the game using binary encoding: all OFF = game #0 (Panthera), S1 alone ON = game #1 (Spiderman), S2 alone ON = game #2 (Circus), etc. The full list runs from Panthera to Night Moves.

The S2 block controls four options:

Switch	Function	When to Enable
S2-1	Free play	To play without a coin mechanism: pressing the credit button simulates inserting a coin
S2-2	NVRAM reset	Recommended on the very first boot, then set back to OFF
S2-3	Slam tilt switch forced "open"	Required on later System 80B machines
S2-4	Slam tilt switch forced "closed"	Most System 80 machines require this switch closed and won't start if it's open

This last point is worth emphasizing: if your machine won't boot, the slam tilt switch is a prime suspect. Setting S2-4 to ON immediately rules out this possibility.

First Boot: What You Should See

Plug the machine back in, turn it on, and observe — without touching the playfield.

• The displays light up with a boot sequence. On a GottFA80, player 1's display shows the FPGA firmware version, player 2's display shows the game selected via S1, and player 3's display shows the board's unique lisy.dev identifier.
• The yellow "ON" LED lights up once the game code is running correctly (regular interrupts visible). This is the signal that everything is working.
• An SD card error LED lights up if the board can't read its image. In that case, look no further: the problem is with the SD card.
• With a Lisy80, installation is done the same way — board inserted into the driver, machine off; the connectors line up with those on the driver board. Immediately (on 80A) or after a delay of about 5 seconds (on 80), the TILT and GAME OVER LEDs flash briefly.

If the game starts, enter test mode and run through lamps, solenoids, switches, and displays. This is precisely where the Lisy80 excels: its diagnostic menu drives each output individually and tells you in minutes what's actually broken.

Installation Troubleshooting

Symptom	Probable Cause	Solution
Nothing lights up at all	Fuse, power cord, switch, transformer	Check the fuses before blaming the board
Board doesn't boot, displays off	+5 V absent or out of spec; power connector misaligned	Measure +5 V at the test point; recheck connector alignment
Boots then shuts down / resets in a loop	+5 V too high (> 5.2 V) or unstable	Adjust the potentiometer; check the filter capacitors
Wrong game displayed	S1 dip switches set incorrectly	Recheck the binary game selection encoding
Machine refuses to start a game	Slam tilt switch open	Set S2-4 to ON to force the switch "closed"
Erratic scores, settings lost	NVRAM not initialized	Set S2-2 to ON, restart, then set back to OFF
A lamp, solenoid, or target doesn't respond	Most often mechanical: misaligned switch, burnt coil, broken wire	Diagnose via test mode — a new board doesn't fix mechanical problems

Let's be clear on this point. A replacement board solves electronic problems: corroded CPU, burnt driver, failing power supply, dead sound, lost memory. It does not fix a burnt coil, an oxidized switch, a dead rubber, a worn playfield, a blown display, or a cut wire harness. If your machine has mechanical issues, they'll remain after installation — and that's normal. For that side of things, see our complete restoration guide.

Which Board for Which Pinball Machine?

Machine	Board	What It Replaces	Price (from)
Gottlieb System 80 / 80A / 80B	GottFA80_Plus	CPU + driver (+ power supply on 80 and 80A)	€349
Gottlieb System 80 / 80A / 80B	GottFA80_Plus V2 Full	Same + integrated sound board	€399
Gottlieb System 80 / 80A / 80B	Lisy80	CPU, with full diagnostic menu	€199
Gottlieb System 80 / 80A / 80B	Godri80	Driver board	€99
Gottlieb System 80 / 80A / 80B	Gosof	Sound board (with speech)	€129
Gottlieb System 80 / 80A / 80B	GoPOP80	Pop bumper board MA-922 / A-19741	€29
Williams System 3 through 7	WillFA7	CPU	€349
Bally (1977–1985)	BallyFA	MPU (type -35)	€299

FAQ — Installing a Replacement Pinball Board

Do I need to know how to solder to install a replacement pinball board?

No. A board delivered assembled and programmed installs without soldering — it uses the same connectors and mounting holes as the original. Soldering is only needed if you're assembling a board from a kit yourself, or if you need to replace connector pins on the machine's wiring harness.

How long does the installation take?

Allow 20 to 30 minutes for the removal and replacement itself. Add one to two hours if you're thoroughly cleaning the connectors and removing battery corrosion — which we strongly recommend.

Do I need to remove the battery before installing the board?

Yes, absolutely. The original NiCd battery leaks potassium hydroxide, which eats through traces and components — it's the main cause of CPU board destruction. Our replacement boards operate without a battery, so there's nothing to put back after installation.

What if the pinball machine won't start after installation?

In order: turn everything off, verify that each connector is properly aligned (not offset by one pin), measure the +5 V (it should be between 5.0 and 5.2 V), check the fuses, then force the slam tilt switch to the "closed" position via the designated dip switch. These four checks cover the vast majority of cases.

Can a replacement board fix a completely dead pinball machine?

It fixes the electronic side: CPU, driver, power supply, sound. It doesn't fix mechanical failures (coils, switches, mechanisms), defective displays, or cut wiring harnesses. On a "dead" machine, diagnosis is still essential — and that's exactly what the test mode on a board like the Lisy80 enables.

Can I go back to the original board afterward?

Yes. The installation is fully reversible: no cables are cut, no connectors are modified. Just keep your original board, its screws, and its standoffs.

Does the same board work on multiple pinball machines?

With FPGA boards, yes, within the same system family: the game is selected via dip switches. A GottFA80 can cover the entire range of System 80/80A/80B machines, from Panthera to Night Moves, as long as you have the corresponding ROMs.

Sources & Further Reading

• GottFA80_PLuS User Manual (lisy.dev) — connectors, dip switches, boot sequence
• PinWiki — Williams System 3-7 — test points and connectors
• PinWiki — Bally — MPU identification and voltages
• Pinrepair — Williams System 3-7
• Flipjuke — battery corrosion and Molex connectors
• IPDB — machine data sheets and manuals

For more on pinball electronics: Pinball machine electronics explained and Repair or replace a pinball electronic board.