Where to Buy a Used Pinball Machine (and Avoid Scams): The 2026 Guide

Where to buy a used pinball machine? The reliable channels in France are specialized forums (Flipjuke, FlipperFrance), valuation and classifieds sites for enthusiasts (Flip&Cote), established dealers (more expensive but with guarantees), and, with caution, Leboncoin. The rule that will save you from 100% of scams fits in one sentence: never pay a deposit and never buy without having seen, powered on, and played the machine. This guide covers each channel in detail, the inspection checklist, the warning signs, and why a "broken" pinball machine can be the best deal on the market.

• Where to buy a used pinball machine: the 5 channels compared
• How much does a used pinball machine cost in 2026?
• The 8 warning signs of a scam
• The inspection checklist before buying
• Negotiating the price: arguments that work
• Buying a broken pinball machine: great deal or trap?
• Your rights: private seller or dealer?
• FAQ

Where to buy a used pinball machine: the 5 channels compared

The used pinball machine market in France is small and very community-driven. There is no official "Blue Book" like for cars: most models were produced in runs of just a few thousand units, and the condition of a machine varies enormously from one example to the next. As a result, the channel you buy through determines both the price and the risk.

Channel	Price	Scam risk	Best for?
Specialized forums (Flipjuke, FlipperFrance)	Fair to good	Low: identified sellers, message history, reputation at stake	The best compromise for a serious first purchase
Flip&Cote (coteflip.com)	Fair	Low to moderate	See valuations AND listings in one place
Dealers	High (+20 to +40%)	Very low	Those who want a legal warranty and zero DIY
Leboncoin	Variable: from great to outrageous	High	Experienced bargain hunters, local purchases only
Facebook groups / swap meets	Variable	Moderate	Networking, lucky finds, bulk lots

Forums: the safest channel

On Flipjuke and FlipperFrance, a seller has a username, a message history, and a reputation to protect. Flipjuke even requires a minimum account age and number of posts before allowing someone to post a listing: it is a natural anti-scam filter. You can read the seller's past exchanges, see if they have sold before, and ask your questions publicly.

Flip&Cote: valuations and listings in one place

Flip&Cote indexes over 2,300 machines and aggregates a catalog (data from the Open Pinball Database), prices observed online, and private listings. It is the most convenient tool to check whether the asking price is consistent with the market before traveling to see a machine. To learn more about valuation, read our guide How Much Is My Pinball Machine Worth? Valuation, Estimates, and Prices by Model.

Dealers: safety at a premium

A dealer sells at a higher price, but owes you the legal warranty of conformity (see below) and is generally capable of repairing the machine. Be cautious, however: simply having a registered business does not make someone a good dealer. Verify that they have a real workshop, ask for the details of the servicing performed, and look for reviews from other buyers.

Leboncoin: the best and the worst

This is where the real bargains are — an inherited, dusty pinball machine sold by someone who knows nothing about them — but also where the majority of scams happen. On Leboncoin, one rule applies: local purchase, in person, payment at the time of pickup. No exceptions.

How much does a used pinball machine cost in 2026?

Prices depend mainly on the era, rarity, and condition. As an example, here are listings actually observed on Flip&Cote at the time of writing:

• Solid state machines from the 1980s (Gottlieb System 80, Williams System 3-7, Bally): this is the most affordable segment. Our own case studies document working machines purchased for 800 euros (Bad Girls) and 921 euros (Diamond Lady), or a Mars God of War bought and repaired for under 1,400 euros.
• DMD machines from the 1990s: Ripley's Believe It or Not! listed at 3,600 euros, The Shadow at 4,000 euros, Congo at 5,800 euros, Banzai Run at 6,500 euros.
• Modern machines: Deadpool (Pro) at 6,500 euros, Godzilla (Premium) at 8,500 euros, Elvira's House of Horrors (LE) at 10,000 euros.

These figures are asking prices, not sale prices: the price actually agreed upon is often lower. For a budget-friendly approach, our guide How Much Does a Pinball Machine Cost? The Most Affordable Way to Own One details the complete strategy.

The 8 warning signs of a scam

Pinball machine scams almost always follow the same pattern. An item worth several thousand euros, a loosely regulated sale, an eager buyer: the conditions are ideal. Here are the warning signs that should make you walk away.

1. You are asked for a deposit to "reserve" the machine. This is the classic scam. Never pay a cent before seeing the machine.
2. The seller refuses a visit and systematically offers to use a shipping company. Run.
3. Price significantly below market value. A sought-after 1990s title selling for 1,500 euros does not exist. If it is too good to be true, it is fake.
4. No phone number, only an email address. An honest seller accepts a phone call.
5. Generic photos that can be found through a reverse image search. Ask for a specific photo with a dated piece of paper next to the machine.
6. Poor language, awkward phrasing, inconsistencies in the listing.
7. Payment by prepaid vouchers (PCS, Transcash), international wire transfer, or a link to a "Leboncoin" payment page received by text message. The official address is only leboncoin.fr: any variation is phishing.
8. Ghost online stores. The community has documented several fraudulent pinball machine sales websites (notably flipper-boutique.com, flipper-belgique.com, flipper-equipements.com), which display unrealistic discounts and require a deposit of 1,000 to 1,500 euros before "shipping." The money sent never comes back. Before buying from an unknown website, search for its name on Flipjuke: the community flags fraud very quickly.

The inspection checklist before buying

1. Remotely, before traveling to see the machine

• Call the seller. A five-minute conversation reveals a lot.
• Ask: does the machine start up? Does it display an error message? Do all targets and pop bumpers work?
• Ask for photos of the playfield, the back of the open backbox (the boards), and the underside of the playfield. A seller who refuses is hiding something.
• Ask whether both keys (coin door and backbox) are included.
• Check the model's valuation on Flip&Cote.

2. On site: inspecting the machine

Insist on a location that is well-lit and has a power outlet. A machine that cannot be powered on is a machine you do not buy. Then:

• Cabinet and backbox: look for cracks, humidity-related swelling, worn or peeling decals.
• Backglass: this is the most expensive and hardest piece to replace on a vintage pinball machine. Look for paint flaking. A backglass in poor condition seriously reduces the value.
• Playfield: wear on the clear coat around holes and inserts, bare wood, sunken inserts. Dimpling (small ball impacts) is normal and unavoidable.
• Play several games. Send the ball everywhere: every target, every ramp, every pop bumper. Verify that the displays light up all their segments.
• Run the test mode if the machine has one: it lists faulty switches and solenoids in seconds.

3. Under the playfield and inside the backbox: the real examination

This is where the difference between a great deal and a money pit is decided. Let the owner lift the playfield (to avoid any dispute like "you broke it"), then look for:

• Battery leak residue. On electronic pinball machines from the 1980s, a battery soldered to the CPU board maintains the memory. When it leaks, the electrolyte corrodes the traces and destroys the board. A greenish or whitish board around the battery holder is a major warning sign. We detail the damage and remedies in our article Battery Leak on a Pinball Machine: Dangers and the Permanent Solution.
• Bodge wires and hacks: flying wires, added straps, crude solder joints, blackened components, melted connectors. A clean repair is visible; so is a hack job.
• Connector condition: burned or oxidized connectors are a classic cause of intermittent failures.
• Mechanicals: solenoid coils, springs, worn flipper contacts. These are repairable and inexpensive, but they are negotiating points.

Be honest with yourself on this point: an electronic board can be easily replaced today; a destroyed playfield or a flaking backglass cannot.

Negotiating the price: arguments that work

The fair price is the one buyer and seller agree on. Negotiate, but with factual, quantified arguments — not by disparaging the machine:

• "The backglass is flaking; a replacement costs X euros."
• "Three targets are not responding; you need to factor in a driver board."
• "The battery leaked on the CPU board; it will need to be replaced."
• "The model sells for between X and Y euros on Flip&Cote in this condition."

If the seller will not budge, politely decline and keep watching the listing. Positions often come closer after a few weeks with no buyer. And do not forget to ask for both keys before leaving: chasing down a seller who has already cashed your check is a thankless endeavor.

Buying a broken pinball machine: great deal or trap?

This is the most profitable strategy on the market — provided you can tell the difference between an electronic fault and a mechanical or cosmetic issue.

A pinball machine from the 1980s with a dead CPU board (battery leak, fried processor, failed ground connections) often sells well below its "working" valuation. Yet, on the systems we cover — Gottlieb System 80/80A/80B, Williams System 3 to 7, Bally (1977-1985) — this type of failure is now resolved by replacing the board, with no soldering and no electronics expertise required. You buy an electronic wreck and walk away with a battery-free machine, protected against any future corrosion.

Let us be clear: a replacement board does not fix everything. It will not restore a playfield worn down to bare wood, re-bond a flaking backglass, or replace worn-out coils. It solves electronic faults — and these are the number one cause of vintage pinball machines that "won't start anymore." To understand what each board does, read Pinball Machine Electronics Explained: MPU, Driver Board, Power Supply, and Sound Board.

Your rights: private seller or dealer?

The difference is legal, and it matters.

• Buying from a dealer: the legal warranty of conformity applies, including for second-hand goods. You have 2 years from the date of purchase to invoke it. For second-hand items, the presumption that the defect existed at delivery lasts 12 months: after that, the burden of proof shifts to you (source: economie.gouv.fr). The legal warranty against hidden defects also applies.
• Buying from a private individual: no warranty of conformity. Only the warranty against hidden defects remains, but it is difficult to enforce in practice. In other words: anything you did not check, you bought as-is.

This is precisely why the inspection checklist above is not optional. For a step-by-step method, also see our guide How to Buy a Pinball Machine While Avoiding Mistakes.

FAQ: Your questions about buying a used pinball machine

Where can I buy a used pinball machine in France?

The most reliable channels are specialized forums (Flipjuke, FlipperFrance), Flip&Cote (coteflip.com) which combines valuations and listings, established dealers, and swap meets/shows. Leboncoin can offer great deals but also concentrates the majority of scams: only buy locally and in person.

How can I tell if a pinball machine listing is a scam?

The warning signs are: a deposit request, refusal to allow a visit, a price well below market value, no phone number, generic photos, poor language, and payment by prepaid vouchers or international wire transfer. An honest seller always accepts a phone call and a visit.

Should I buy a broken pinball machine?

Yes, if the fault is electronic and the playfield is in good condition. A machine that will not start up sells well below its valuation. On Gottlieb System 80, Williams System 3-7, and Bally machines, a Plug & Play replacement board restores the machine to working order with no soldering. However, a playfield worn down to bare wood or a flaking backglass are far more expensive to repair.

How much does a used pinball machine cost?

Solid state machines from the 1980s (Gottlieb, Williams, Bally) remain the most accessible segment; we document working purchases in the 800 to 1,400 euro range on this blog. A DMD machine from the 1990s typically lists between 3,500 and 6,500 euros depending on the title and condition, and a sought-after modern machine can exceed 8,000 euros. Always check the specific model's valuation before traveling to see it.

What should I check before buying a used pinball machine?

In order: that the machine powers on and starts up without an error message; the condition of the playfield and backglass; the absence of battery leak residue on the boards in the backbox; the absence of bodge wires (flying wires, crude solder joints); that all targets, pop bumpers, and displays work properly; and that both keys (coin door and backbox) are included.

Is it safer to buy from a dealer?

Yes, legally. The legal warranty of conformity applies to second-hand goods sold by a dealer, with a presumption that the defect existed at delivery for 12 months and a 2-year period to take action. In return, expect to pay significantly more than buying from a private individual. That is the price of peace of mind.

Sources & further reading

• Flipjuke — Classifieds (pinball machines, jukeboxes, arcade)
• Flip&Cote — Pinball machine valuations and prices in France
• FlipperFrance — French pinball community forum
• Nudge Pinball (Pinball Mag) — Buying a used pinball machine: guide and tips
• economie.gouv.fr — Second-hand goods: what warranties for the buyer?
• IPDB — Internet Pinball Machine Database
• Pinside — Reviews, ratings, and international forums