Pinball Pool (Gottlieb, 1979): faults and System 1 replacement boards
Does your Pinball Pool (Gottlieb, 1979) freeze after half an hour of play, do the displays go dark or do the drop targets no longer reset? This Gottlieb pinball with a billiards theme is built on System 1. Here are the typical faults reported on the forums and the battery-free replacement solutions.
Pinball Pool overview
Released in 1979, the Pinball Pool is a Gottlieb solid-state pinball built on System 1. Its theme features American billiards (pool, 8-ball) with a colourful, very "seventies" look.
- Manufacturer: Gottlieb
- Year: 1979
- System: Gottlieb System 1
- Type: solid state (alphanumeric displays)
- Theme: billiards, pool, 8-ball
Common faults (System 1)
The Gottlieb System 1 shares a set of well-known weaknesses, regardless of the game:
- Leaking battery: the NiCad battery soldered onto the MPU board leaks over time and corrodes traces and components. It's the number-one fault — remove it without delay.
- Poor grounding: the original ground wiring is undersized and causes resets and erratic behaviour (the "ground mods" are practically mandatory).
- Corroded connectors: the Molex connectors, especially the MPU↔Driver link (46 pins), lose contact and need re-pinning.
- Power supply: unstable 5 V, tired bridge rectifiers and an overheating transformer lead to crashes.
- Displays: digits that fade, flicker or stay frozen at zero.
Pinball Pool-specific problems (forums)
- Several displays faulty at once: suspect first the A1J2/A1J3 connectors on the CPU or the display-data chips on the CPU board.
- Lock-up after ~30 min: after half an hour the displays go off and the game freezes; unplugging then re-plugging the power-supply↔CPU cable restarts it temporarily (a sign of a connector to redo).
- Battery that leaked under the MPU: the corrosion attacks the connector located beneath the battery (switch inputs), causing random target lamps and buttons that no longer respond.
- Low 5 V after a regulator rebuild: often a bad connection at the legs of transistor Q1; reflow the solder of the Base/Emitter eyelets.
- Drop targets that won't reset: at start-up, check the bank's coil, diode and transistor.
- Grounds: apply the CPU and power-supply ground mods to stabilise the whole thing.
Pinball Pool-compatible replacement boards
The Pinball Pool is built on the Gottlieb System 1, a platform known to be fragile (leaking battery, weak grounds, oxidised connectors). Pinballs Store offers battery-free replacement solutions to make it reliable again:
- Gosof — replacement sound board.
For a CPU/Driver board dedicated to System 1, contact us: we'll point you to the best solution for your Pinball Pool. Plug & Play installation, battery-free, free support.
FAQ — Pinball Pool Gottlieb
What year was the Pinball Pool released?
In 1979. It's a Gottlieb solid-state pinball on the System 1 platform.
Why does my Pinball Pool freeze after 30 minutes?
It's typically a failing contact on the power-supply↔CPU cable that lets go when hot. Re-pinning that connector and switching to a replacement board fixes the problem for good.
Should I remove the battery from the MPU board?
Yes, immediately. The original NiCad battery eventually leaks and destroys the board. A battery-free replacement board permanently eliminates this risk.
Is there a replacement board for the Pinball Pool?
Yes. Contact us for the right System 1 CPU/Driver solution; installation is Plug & Play, battery-free, with free support.
How long does it take to install a replacement board?
Installation is Plug & Play: a few minutes, no soldering, with tutorials and free support.
Does a battery-free board keep the settings and high scores?
Yes. Modern replacement boards use non-volatile memory: no more battery, no more corrosion, and the settings are kept when powered off.
Step-by-step diagnosis
- Power off, visual inspection: look for any battery or corrosion marks on the MPU of your Pinball Pool; remove the NiCad battery if it is still present.
- Power supply: measure the 5 V and check that it reaches the MPU (re-solder the regulator or Q1 if the voltage drops).
- Grounds: apply the “ground mods” between the boards (CPU, Driver, power supply, sound).
- Connectors: re-pin the oxidised Molex connectors, especially the MPU↔Driver link.
- Displays: never plug or unplug a display while powered on; test with a known-good display.
- Final test: check start-up, credits, coils and displays; if needed, contact the free support.
See also
- Cleopatra (Gottlieb, 1977)
- Count-Down (Gottlieb, 1979)
- Totem (Gottlieb, 1979)
- The Incredible Hulk (Gottlieb, 1979)
