Count-Down (Gottlieb, 1979): faults and System 1 replacement boards

June 27, 2026

Does your Count-Down (Gottlieb, 1979) no longer start, are the coils silent or does a fuse keep blowing? This Gottlieb pinball with a space-countdown theme is built on System 1. Here are the typical faults reported on the forums and the battery-free replacement solutions.

Count-Down overview

Released in 1979, the Count-Down (sometimes spelled "Countdown") is a Gottlieb solid-state pinball built on System 1. Its theme evokes the countdown of a space launch.

Manufacturer: Gottlieb
Year: 1979
System: Gottlieb System 1
Type: solid state (alphanumeric displays)
Theme: countdown, space, rocket launch

Gottlieb System 1 MPU board — Count-Down — The MPU board drives the entire Gottlieb System 1.

Common faults (System 1)

The Gottlieb System 1 shares a set of well-known weaknesses, regardless of the game:

Leaking battery: the NiCad battery soldered onto the MPU board leaks over time and corrodes traces and components. It's the number-one fault — remove it without delay.
Poor grounding: the original ground wiring is undersized and causes resets and erratic behaviour (the "ground mods" are practically mandatory).
Corroded connectors: the Molex connectors, especially the MPU↔Driver link (46 pins), lose contact and need re-pinning.
Power supply: unstable 5 V, tired bridge rectifiers and an overheating transformer lead to crashes.
Displays: digits that fade, flicker or stay frozen at zero.

Battery corrosion on a Gottlieb System 1 board — Count-Down — Typical NiCad battery corrosion on System 1: the number-one fault to fix.

Count-Down-specific problems (forums)

Blown bank fuse: each bank reset coil has its own fuse (under the playfield, near the coil); a dead fuse blocks the target reset.
Game-over relay: it must pull in at the start of a game, otherwise the coils don't work at all.
Atypical solenoid driving: the Count-Down has 5 controlled solenoids for only 3 dedicated driver transistors; 2 are driven via lamp-driver transistors and under-playfield transistors (yellow and blue drop-target bank resets) — good to know when troubleshooting.
5101 RAM and reset circuit: these are the most common board failures, often made worse by battery corrosion.
Bonus eject hole firing in a loop: a switch left closed (with no ball) causes spurious ejects.
Edge connectors: cleaning (Scotch-Brite), exercising the contacts and re-pinning the female connectors.

Count-Down-compatible replacement boards

The Count-Down is built on the Gottlieb System 1, a platform known to be fragile (leaking battery, weak grounds, oxidised connectors). Pinballs Store offers battery-free replacement solutions to make it reliable again:

Gosof — replacement sound board.

Gosof sound board for Gottlieb System 1 — Count-Down — The Gosof sound board: battery-free replacement, Plug & Play installation.

For a CPU/Driver board dedicated to System 1, contact us: we'll point you to the best solution for your Count-Down. Plug & Play installation, battery-free, free support.

FAQ — Count-Down Gottlieb

What year was the Count-Down released?
In 1979. It's a Gottlieb solid-state pinball on the System 1 platform.

Why don't the coils on my Count-Down work?
Most often because the game-over relay doesn't pull in and/or a bank fuse is blown. Check those two points first, along with the grounds.

Should I remove the battery from the MPU board?
Yes, immediately. The original NiCad battery eventually leaks and destroys the board. A battery-free replacement board permanently eliminates this risk.

Is there a replacement board for the Count-Down?
Yes. Contact us for the right System 1 CPU/Driver solution; installation is Plug & Play, battery-free, with free support.

How long does it take to install a replacement board?
Installation is Plug & Play: a few minutes, no soldering, with tutorials and free support.

Does a battery-free board keep the settings and high scores?
Yes. Modern replacement boards use non-volatile memory: no more battery, no more corrosion, and the settings are kept when powered off.

Step-by-step diagnosis

Power off, visual inspection: look for any battery or corrosion marks on the MPU of your Count-Down; remove the NiCad battery if it is still present.
Power supply: measure the 5 V and check that it reaches the MPU (re-solder the regulator or Q1 if the voltage drops).
Grounds: apply the “ground mods” between the boards (CPU, Driver, power supply, sound).
Connectors: re-pin the oxidised Molex connectors, especially the MPU↔Driver link.
Displays: never plug or unplug a display while powered on; test with a known-good display.
Final test: check start-up, credits, coils and displays; if needed, contact the free support.