Flipper Torch

Torch (Gottlieb, 1980): faults and System 1 replacement boards

Does your Torch (Gottlieb, 1980) have dead displays, no coils at all or a fuse that keeps blowing? This Gottlieb pinball with a fire theme is built on System 1. Here are the typical faults reported on the forums and the battery-free replacement solutions.

Torch overview

Released in 1980, the Torch is a Gottlieb solid-state pinball built on System 1. Its fiery theme features fire and a flaming torch.

  • Manufacturer: Gottlieb
  • Year: 1980
  • System: Gottlieb System 1
  • Type: solid state (alphanumeric displays)
  • Theme: fire, torch
Gottlieb System 1 MPU board — Torch
The MPU board drives the entire Gottlieb System 1.

Common faults (System 1)

The Gottlieb System 1 shares a set of well-known weaknesses, regardless of the game:

  • Leaking battery: the NiCad battery soldered onto the MPU board leaks over time and corrodes traces and components. It's the number-one fault — remove it without delay.
  • Poor grounding: the original ground wiring is undersized and causes resets and erratic behaviour (the "ground mods" are practically mandatory).
  • Corroded connectors: the Molex connectors, especially the MPU↔Driver link (46 pins), lose contact and need re-pinning.
  • Power supply: unstable 5 V, tired bridge rectifiers and an overheating transformer lead to crashes.
  • Displays: digits that fade, flicker or stay frozen at zero.
Battery corrosion on a Gottlieb System 1 board — Torch
Typical NiCad battery corrosion on System 1: the number-one fault to fix.

Torch-specific problems (forums)

  • Dead displays + game won't start: displays that don't light up, inability to register a credit or start a game; "glitchy" displays typical of System 1.
  • No coils at all / weak coils: no coil responds, or only ~12 V at the coils instead of full voltage.
  • Fuse that keeps blowing: the display-control fuse (69 V 1/4 A slo-blo) blows every few minutes, sometimes after just one minute.
  • Low 5 V: often a bad connection at the legs of transistor Q1; reflow the feed-through eyelet solder.
  • First steps: re-pin all the connectors, check for battery damage and the power-supply output.
  • Protections: add the recommended fuses, do the ground mods and check the protection diodes.

Torch-compatible replacement boards

The Torch is built on the Gottlieb System 1, a platform known to be fragile (leaking battery, weak grounds, oxidised connectors, blowing fuses). Pinballs Store offers battery-free replacement solutions to make it reliable again:

  • Gosof — replacement sound board.
Gosof sound board for Gottlieb System 1 — Torch
The Gosof sound board: battery-free replacement, Plug & Play installation.

For a CPU/Driver board dedicated to System 1, contact us: we'll point you to the best solution for your Torch. Plug & Play installation, battery-free, free support.

FAQ — Torch Gottlieb

What year was the Torch released?
In 1980. It's a Gottlieb solid-state pinball on the System 1 platform.

Why does my Torch's fuse keep blowing?
It's usually a short on the display or power-supply side. Check the displays, the bridge rectifiers and the transistors before fitting a new fuse.

Should I remove the battery from the MPU board?
Yes, immediately. The original NiCad battery eventually leaks and destroys the board. A battery-free replacement board permanently eliminates this risk.

Is there a replacement board for the Torch?
Yes. Contact us for the right System 1 CPU/Driver solution; installation is Plug & Play, battery-free, with free support.

How long does it take to install a replacement board?
Installation is Plug & Play: a few minutes, no soldering, with tutorials and free support.

Does a battery-free board keep the settings and high scores?
Yes. Modern replacement boards use non-volatile memory: no more battery, no more corrosion, and the settings are kept when powered off.

Step-by-step diagnosis

  1. Power off, visual inspection: look for any battery or corrosion traces on your Torch's MPU; remove the NiCad battery if it is still present.
  2. Power supply: measure the 5 V and check it reaches the MPU (reflow the solder on the regulator or Q1 if the voltage drops).
  3. Grounds: apply the "ground mods" between the boards (CPU, Driver, power supply, sound).
  4. Connectors: re-pin the oxidised Molex connectors, especially the MPU↔Driver link.
  5. Displays: never connect or disconnect a display with the power on; test with a known-good display.
  6. Final test: check start-up, credits, coils and displays; if needed, contact our free support.

See also

Sources

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