Where to Buy a Used Pinball Machine (and Avoid Scams): The 2026 Guide

Where can you buy a used pinball machine? The serious channels in France are specialist forums (Flipjuke, FlipperFrance), price-guide and classified-ad sites for enthusiasts (Flip&Cote), established dealers (more expensive, but covered by a warranty) and, with caution, Leboncoin. The single rule that will spare you 100% of the scams fits in one sentence: never pay a deposit, and never buy a machine you have not seen, powered up and played. This guide covers every channel, the inspection checklist, the warning signs, and why a “broken” pinball machine can be the best deal on the market.

• Where to buy a used pinball machine: the 5 channels compared
• How much does a used pinball machine cost in 2026?
• The 8 red flags of a scam
• The inspection checklist before you buy
• Negotiating the price: arguments that work
• Buying a broken pinball machine: bargain or trap?
• Your rights: private seller or dealer?
• FAQ

Where to buy a used pinball machine: the 5 channels compared

The used pinball market in France is small and highly community-driven. There is no official price book as there is for cars: most models were produced in runs of a few thousand units, and condition varies enormously from one machine to the next. As a result, the channel you buy through shapes both the price and the risk.

Channel	Price	Scam risk	Who is it for?
Specialist forums (Flipjuke, FlipperFrance)	Fair to good	Low: identified sellers, post history, reputation at stake	The best compromise for a serious first purchase
Flip&Cote (coteflip.com)	Fair	Low to medium	Price guides AND classified ads in one place
Dealers	High (+20% to +40%)	Very low	Anyone who wants a legal warranty and no bodge jobs
Leboncoin	Variable: from excellent to absurd	High	Experienced bargain hunters, local pickup only
Facebook groups / swap meets	Variable	Medium	Networking, lucky finds, job lots

Forums: the safest channel

On Flipjuke and FlipperFrance, a seller has a username, a post history and a reputation to protect. Flipjuke even requires a minimum level of seniority and posts before allowing a classified ad to be published — a natural anti-scam filter. You can read the seller’s past exchanges, see whether they have sold before, and ask your questions in public.

Flip&Cote: prices and ads in one place

Flip&Cote lists more than 2,300 machines and combines a catalogue (data from the Open Pinball Database), prices observed online, and classified ads between private individuals. It is the handiest tool for checking whether an asking price is in line with the market before you drive across the country. For more on valuation, read our guide What is my pinball machine worth? Values, estimates and prices by model.

The dealer: safety, at a price

A dealer sells for more, but owes you the legal guarantee of conformity (see below) and is generally able to repair the machine. Be careful, though: having a registered company does not automatically make someone a good professional. Check that they have a real workshop, ask for the details of the servicing carried out, and look for reviews from other buyers.

Leboncoin: the best and the worst

This is where the real bargains hide — an inherited, dusty machine sold by someone who knows nothing about pinball — but also where most of the scams live. On Leboncoin there is only one rule: buy locally, in person, and pay only at collection. No exceptions.

How much does a used pinball machine cost in 2026?

Prices depend above all on era, rarity and condition. By way of example, here are listings actually observed on Flip&Cote at the time of writing:

• 1980s solid state (Gottlieb System 80, Williams System 3-7, Bally): the most affordable segment. Our own case studies document working machines bought for €800 (Bad Girls) and €921 (Diamond Lady), or a Mars God of War bought and repaired for under €1,400.
• 1990s DMD machines: Ripley’s Believe It or Not! listed at €3,600, The Shadow €4,000, Congo €5,800, Banzai Run €6,500.
• Modern machines: Deadpool (Pro) €6,500, Godzilla (Premium) €8,500, Elvira’s House of Horrors (LE) €10,000.

These are asking prices, not sale prices: the figure actually agreed is often lower. For a controlled budget, our guide How much does a pinball machine cost? The most affordable way to own one sets out the full strategy.

The 8 red flags of a scam

Pinball scams almost always follow the same script. An item worth several thousand euros, a lightly regulated sale, an impatient buyer: the ground is fertile. Here are the signals that should send you running.

1. You are asked for a deposit to “reserve” the machine. This is the classic scam. Never pay a cent before you have seen the machine.
2. The seller refuses a visit and systematically offers to use a courier. Walk away.
3. A price well below market. A sought-after 1990s title for €1,500 does not exist. If it looks too good, it is fake.
4. No phone number, email only. An honest seller will take a call.
5. Generic photos that turn up in a reverse image search. Ask for a specific photo with a dated note next to the machine.
6. Poor language, badly translated phrasing, inconsistencies in the ad.
7. Payment by vouchers (PCS, Transcash), transfer abroad, or a link to a “Leboncoin” payment page received by text. The official address is only leboncoin.fr: any variant is phishing.
8. Phantom online shops. The community has documented several fraudulent pinball sales websites (notably flipper-boutique.com, flipper-belgique.com, flipper-équipements.com), which advertise implausible discounts and demand a deposit of €1,000 to €1,500 before “shipping”. The money never comes back. Before buying from an unknown site, search its name on Flipjuke: the community flags fraud very quickly.

The inspection checklist before you buy

1. Remotely, before you travel

• Call the seller. A five-minute conversation reveals a great deal.
• Ask: does the machine boot? Does it show an error message? Do all the targets and bumpers work?
• Ask for photos of the playfield, of the open backbox (the boards) and of the underside of the playfield. A seller who refuses has something to hide.
• Ask whether both keys (coin door and backbox) are present.
• Check the model’s value on Flip&Cote.

2. On site: walk around the machine

Insist on a well-lit place with a power socket. A machine you cannot switch on is a machine you do not buy. Then:

• Cabinet and backbox: look for cracks, swelling caused by damp, worn or peeling decals.
• Backglass: this is the most expensive and hardest part to replace on a vintage pinball machine. Look for paint flaking. A backglass in poor condition seriously cuts the value.
• Playfield: worn clearcoat around holes and inserts, bare wood, sunken inserts. Dimpling (small impact marks) is normal and unavoidable.
• Play several games. Send the ball everywhere: every target, every ramp, every bumper. Check that the displays light every segment.
• Run the test mode if the machine has one: it lists faulty switches and solenoids within seconds.

3. Under the playfield and inside the backbox: the real examination

This is where a bargain is separated from a money pit. Let the owner lift the playfield (this avoids any “you broke it” dispute), then look at:

• Battery leakage marks. On 1980s solid-state pinball machines, a battery soldered to the CPU board maintains the memory. When it leaks, the electrolyte corrodes the tracks and destroys the board. A greenish or whitish board around the battery holder is a major warning sign. We cover the damage and the remedies in our article The leaking battery on a pinball machine: dangers and the definitive solution.
• “Bodge jobs”: flying wires, added straps, crude soldering, blackened components, melted connectors. A clean repair is visible; so is a botch.
• Connector condition: burnt or oxidised connectors are a classic cause of intermittent faults.
• Mechanics: coils, springs, worn flipper contacts. Repairable and inexpensive, but worth negotiating over.

Be honest with yourself on this point: an electronic board is easy to replace today; a destroyed playfield or a flaking backglass is not.

Negotiating the price: arguments that work

The right price is the one buyer and seller agree on. Negotiate, but with factual, costed arguments — not by running the machine down:

• “The backglass is flaking; a replacement costs €X.”
• “Three targets are dead; that means a driver board.”
• “The battery has leaked on the CPU board; it will need replacing.”
• “This model sells for between €X and €Y on Flip&Cote in this condition.”

If the seller will not listen, decline politely and keep an eye on the ad. Positions often converge after a few weeks without a buyer. And do not forget to ask for both keys before you leave: chasing a seller who has already cashed your cheque is a thankless sport.

Buying a broken pinball machine: bargain or trap?

This is the most profitable strategy on the market — provided you can tell an electronic fault from mechanical or cosmetic damage.

A 1980s pinball machine with a dead CPU board (leaked battery, blown processor, failing ground) usually sells well below its “working” value. And on the systems we cover — Gottlieb System 80/80A/80B, Williams System 3 to 7, Bally/Stern 1977-1985 — that fault is fixed today by replacing the board, with no soldering and no electronics skills. You buy an electronic wreck and walk away with a machine that has no battery at all, and therefore no risk of fresh corrosion.

Let us be clear: a replacement board does not fix everything. It will not restore a playfield worn down to bare wood, will not re-adhere a flaking backglass and will not replace tired coils. It solves electronic faults — and those are the leading cause of vintage pinball machines that “no longer start”. To understand which board does what, read Pinball electronics explained: MPU, driver, power supply and sound board.

Your rights: private seller or dealer?

The difference is a legal one, and it matters.

• Buying from a dealer: the legal guarantee of conformity applies, including to second-hand goods. You have 2 years from the purchase to invoke it. On a second-hand item, the presumption that the defect pre-existed lasts 12 months: after that, it is up to you to prove the defect existed at the time of sale (source: economie.gouv.fr). The legal warranty against hidden defects applies on top.
• Buying from a private seller: no guarantee of conformity. Only the hidden-defects warranty remains, and it is hard to enforce in practice. In other words: whatever you did not check, you bought.

That is precisely why the inspection checklist above is not optional. For a step-by-step method, see also our guide How to buy a pinball machine without making mistakes.

FAQ: your questions about buying a used pinball machine

Where can I buy a used pinball machine in France?

The most reliable channels are specialist forums (Flipjuke, FlipperFrance), Flip&Cote (coteflip.com), which combines price guides and classified ads, established dealers, and swap meets/shows. Leboncoin can offer excellent bargains but also concentrates most of the scams: only buy there locally and in person.

How do I know whether a pinball ad is a scam?

The red flags are: a request for a deposit, refusal of a visit, a price far below market, no phone number, generic photos, poor language, and payment by vouchers or transfer abroad. An honest seller will always accept a phone call and a visit.

Should I buy a broken pinball machine?

Yes, if the fault is electronic and the playfield is in good condition. A machine that will not start sells well below its value. On Gottlieb System 80, Williams System 3-7 and Bally/Stern machines, a Plug & Play replacement board gets the machine running again with no soldering. A playfield worn down to bare wood or a flaking backglass, on the other hand, costs far more to fix.

How much does a used pinball machine cost?

1980s solid state (Gottlieb, Williams, Bally) remains the most accessible segment; on this blog we document working machines bought for around €800 to €1,400. A 1990s DMD machine is commonly listed between €3,500 and €6,500 depending on title and condition, and a sought-after modern machine can exceed €8,000. Always check the value of the specific model before you travel.

What should I check before buying a used pinball machine?

In order: that the machine powers up and boots with no error message; the condition of the playfield and backglass; the absence of battery leakage on the backbox boards; the absence of bodge jobs (flying wires, crude soldering); that all targets, bumpers and displays work; and that both keys (coin door and backbox) are present.

Is it safer to buy from a dealer?

Yes, legally. The legal guarantee of conformity applies to second-hand goods sold by a professional, with a 12-month presumption that the defect pre-existed and a 2-year window to act. In return, expect to pay significantly more than between private individuals. That is the price of peace of mind.

Sources & further reading

• Flipjuke — Classified ads (pinball, jukebox, arcade)
• Flip&Cote — Pinball prices and values in France
• FlipperFrance — French pinball community forum
• Nudge Pinball (Pinball Mag) — Buying a used pinball machine: guide and advice
• economie.gouv.fr — Second-hand goods: what guarantees for the buyer?
• IPDB — Internet Pinball Machine Database
• Pinside — Reviews, ratings and international forums